A heart-to-heart conversation with Naba Basar, a travelogue writer
What exactly inspired you to travel through Pakistan with your son? When did you two begin this?
My son was a year old, when I got divorced. As he was growing up, I kept thinking for a way to create opportunities for him to explore the world, understand different cultures, meet people and enjoy a simple life outside this bubble he was living in. Over the years, I have realized that travel teaches you what classrooms cannot – dealing with people, expressing kindness, showing respect, and appreciating nature. What better way than travelling to appreciate nature and enjoy Allah’s (swt) bounties?
Slightly thrilled and extremely apprehensive, I booked my ticket to Islamabad. This was in 2014, when my son was only three-and-a-half years old. I stepped out for the first time unaccompanied. A friend joined in and we spent 10 days exploring Islamabad, Murree, Ayubia and Nathiagali. I had visited these places before, but this time I was accompanied by a child, for whom solely I was responsible. It was tough to find a reasonable place to stay and eat, plan a budget, manage the little savings that I had and walk miles to avoid spending too much on transport. The first step out of my comfort zone was tough but therapeutic. The mountains, green pastures, wild flowers, forests, lakes, rivers, and waterfalls rejuvenate and heal the soul and bring you closer to the Creator.
What challenges have you faced as a single mother, while travelling?
After the first trip, I started saving up, and my search for cost-effective alternatives began. I came across groups that seemed like the perfect choice for single women and families. Pakistan is one of the best places to enjoy and explore nature on a budget! I have travelled to Gilgit-Baltistan, Kashmir, Chitral and other parts of Khyber Pakhtunkhuwa by myself and in small groups. The people of Gilgit are extremely hospitable, humble, and respectful. No one has ever taken advantage of us. In fact, over the years, we have made many friends, who offer free food and gifts. My son has become more responsible, appreciative, compassionate, and environmentally conscious, and the locals appreciate that kind of attitude.
As a single parent, I do have to manage everything myself, including finances and secure lodgings. Although we find modest accommodations and eat simply, financial constraints often hinder our plans.
In the light of your experiences, is Pakistan unsafe for women?
To be honest, I have not experienced insecurity so far. We walk long distances; we use cabs and public transport (buses and carpool included); we camp; and we stay in hotels, guesthouses, and local homes. I think a lot has to do with your demeanour – how you conduct yourself and interact with people; people remember you because of your attitude. I have always felt safer in Gilgit-Baltistan than many other places I have travelled to. Perhaps this is because they are more educated, as compared to the rest of Pakistan. There are still many places, where one does feel anxious to travel alone. As a woman and a single parent, I have to choose destinations that make me feel comfortable. I do wish I could explore Baluchistan and Sindh more.
Can you share your best travelling experience so far?
That is a tough one! Every place has a different landscape, beauty, and culture. But for me, people matter. I have been to the most gorgeous valleys and villages of Pakistan, but if the people are not welcoming, you feel uneasy. Hunza is on my list every year, as there the people are exceptionally warm and generous. I also enjoy trekking. So far, my favourite trek has been Avgarch and Boibar. These are small villages in Hunza, where we stayed in a home. It was a completely different experience, where we also harvested, washed, and cooked potatoes.
Avgarch – Persian words ‘ab’ (water) and ‘kerch’ (hut) – is a historical settlement, which used to be a grassy campsite with a small hut by a clear spring. Avgarch is at a height of 3,200 m with beautiful pastures and hamlets, glaciers and peaks, the oldest Juniper tree of Hunza, Boibar Valley, Priyar Valley and the famous Qaroon / Qorun Pass. From Avgarch, you continue up, reach a footbridge, cross the river to head towards Boibar at 3,505 m. Boibar is known as the original Wakhi settlement in Gojal, Hunza, and the old route to Shimshal. It has spectacular Juniper trees and gorgeous views of Qaroon pass, Boibar peak and Jurjur Sar, both are above 7,000 m located in the Karakoram range of Pakistan. It is a rough, rocky terrain leading to a barren summer settlement with the dramatic north face of Tupodan at 6,106 m in view. The locals say that Tupodan means ‘the sun-drenched mountain’.
Avgarch and Boibar are also names of places in the Wakhan Corridor, suggesting that the original inhabitants may have come from Wakhan. Boibar is the kind of magical place I always wanted to travel to and stay, where there was absolutely no one around except donkeys, cows, goats, and an occasional wild rabbit.
Did these journeys improve the relationship between you and your son in any way?
Definitely, yes! We enjoy long walks, sharing beds, picking fruit, making new friends, and discussing our experiences. The liberty to walk around by himself without any fear has made my son more responsible, too. It is funny, how he feels he needs to take care of me during hikes and treks, especially because I keep tripping!
But there are times, when the lack of the internet facilities, electricity, and junk food options does become frustrating for him. However, we always come back feeling more grateful and appreciative. They say the best education you will ever get is by travelling – nothing teaches you more than exploring the world and accumulating experiences.
Can you tell us a little about your travelogues?
I always wanted to be an author but never really tried writing a book. When I fractured my lower limb, I was confined to the bed for two months, so I started writing. One thing led to another, and I compiled a travelogue based on my first trip to Hunza in Gilgit-Baltistan. It seemed like a good idea, as no female in Pakistan had written a travelogue in English. I wanted to share my experience as a single parent and a Pakistani female explorer. I then started looking for proofreaders, other travel writers, and book publishers, which was not as easy. People kept telling me that I needed to add some fictional drama and spice for it to sell better. But I wanted it to be factual and authentic.
I have two books to my credit: “Gateway to Serenity: The Karakoram Highway” and “Walk to Remember: The Karakoram Highway”. My books carry stories of people, travel tips, recommendations of what you should carry, where to stay, what and where to eat and tourist attractions. My intention was also to write in a language simple enough for anyone to understand and to present a positive image of Pakistan across the globe. Alhamdulillah, I have readers all over the world – the UK, Australia, Sweden, Brazil, the USA, India, and Germany – but I love it, when people in Pakistan recognize the value of my work. The respect and admiration I receive during my trips is heartwarming.
What is the potential for female travel bloggers in Pakistan?
We have many bloggers, v-loggers, and social media influencers. Some of them are making good content, while others are only selling themselves. Sadly, we do not have many credible and dignified female content creators. As a nation, we need to learn to respect people, places, norms, and differences in socio-cultural values, because it does potentially influence one’s fans and followers. Many locals have shared their experiences and made comparisons between foreign and local influencers and how they comport themselves. In spite of these challenges and potential misunderstandings, over the last few years, Pakistan has gained much-deserved limelight and exposure. Thanks to many local and foreign content creators, the world got to know more about the real Pakistan, and this helped in dissipating myths, propagandas, and false impressions. Travel blogs can impact and influence ones’ travel experiences, so we really need to focus on the content we deliver to the masses.
Naba Basar’s blog: https://nababasar.wixsite.com/localadventurer
Hiba’s Afternote: It is highly recommended for Mahrams to travel along for the safety and facilitation of single women.
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